Rainmaker Tokyo Tumble 2023
Kohichi Watanabe has spent the past season exploring the catacombs of his dangle suggestions. No longer in a navel watching or therapeutic potential, nonetheless by forgetting about the accurate world—doesn’t that sound tantalizing?—and as a substitute interpreting the shapes and colors of autumn and iciness as they exist in his suggestions’s uncover.
Taking the lead from impressionist ukiyo-e artists from the Edo generation, who made woodblock prints in the image of snow-capped mountains and ocean waves, the Kyoto-based mostly vogue designer plucked the tea-brown, navy, and muted beiges that made up the sequence straight from his recollections, punctuating them with a scrumptious blaze of vermilion he mentioned represented the shining solar. All of it played out by a movie offered digitally, with objects traipsing by the bleakly gorgeous grassy landscape of Miho in Shizuoka, a spot liked by these aforementioned impressionists for its spectacular views of Mt. Fuji.
The impress is consistent—these kimono-esque obi belts and flashes of blood-crimson have turned into something of a signature for Rainmaker over recent seasons—nonetheless there’s enough magic in the fundamental facets that it continuously feels unusual. As neatly as ukiyo-e, karesansui (zen gardens) additionally equipped an abstract touchpoint for Watanabe, which manifested in the quilted trench coats, printed with geometric shapes and stitched to form grooves paying homage to pebbles raked to have a look at take care of rippling swimming pools of water.
The quilts had been stuffed with a pure silk padding that Watanabe chose for its insulating qualities, and served as a contemporary exchange on the hanten padded jackets that the iciness-hardy Japanese have been sporting for centuries. There’s a utilitarian vibe to Rainmaker that, even though it feels secondary to the excellent thing about the clothing, will small query be liked by the particular person that shrugs on one of its quilted coats this iciness, or firmly belts up a tailored jacket against the nippiness of the wind. That’s testomony to Watanabe’s sensitive device, and is why his clothes invariably have an air of emotional intelligence moreover to superficial enchantment.
Watanabe’s factual mastery, even though, lies in his skill to encompass extinct motifs from his heritage into stylish, frigid-feeling clothing. “In spite of the season, I continuously reduction in suggestions the fusion of Western and Japanese facets,” he shared over electronic mail. “You would possibly possibly perhaps presumably sing I raise out it intentionally, even though it’s unintentional, because as a Japanese vogue designer it’s handiest natural for me to add Japanese facets.”